Peter Luger Steakhouse ØØØØ $$$$

178 B'way, Brooklyn (F to Delancey, J,M,Z to Marcy Ave)

Let me tell you something about Peter Luger: This man should be cannonized as a saint. He created a restaurant that is a temple dedicated to steak. There are no frills. There is nothing fancy. The lighting is far from dim, or the ambiance romantic. When you dine at Peter Luger's you are there to eat meat. End of list.

I imagine it would be more difficult to create a manlier restaurant. It would end up being so hyper-masculine that it wouldn't survive in someplace as gender neutral as NYC. The decor is old-fashioned German: wood floors, old wood tables, wood handled steak knives, beer steins on the small shelf that tops the hardwood wainscoating, wooden beams across the ceiling. Perfection.

If you go to Peter Luger's you must, absolutely must order these things:

• steak
• bacon
• lamb

To do otherwise is folly. The only cut of steak served is the porterhouse. It is dry aged in house, and you can taste it. Nothing decorates the meat; no pepper, no sauce, nothing. The bacon can only be described as 'phenomenal.' Additionally, you will probably never have better lamb than what is served here. If you want something other than meat, try the German hash browns or creamed spinach. Dessert is pretty darn good there, as well. There is no point talking about the food there any longer, as it is the best.

If I could afford it, I would eat at Peter Luger's everyday. (Cash only, so be prepared. If you forget, there is an ATM outside.)